Did you see it? Do you have any clues? Each time we passed another range rover the question was the same. Everyone wanted to see the lion. Isn’t that quite human? We wanted to Continue Reading
The sun glowed red in the evening haze, its fiery color magnified and reflected in the sweeping bends of the Nile. The ferry was making one more languid trip across, angling into the current to negotiate the landing on the other side. Glancing down toward the river, I spied a trio of elephants about a hundred yards below, tugging at tree leaves, and flapping their large African ears. The weary day of travel was redeemed.
We had left Kampala at about eight with Patrick driving and his friend Jared along for the ride. From heavy Sunday morning traffic through busy suburbs and into the countryside headed north. By the time we reached the turn to Masindi, the jungle had given away to savannah and Jared came to life. We were entering the homeland of the Bunyori and it was clear how happy he was to be home, even though he had just visited for Christmas,
We inspected the map over goat stew and kalo in Masindi, but did realize just how long and rough the road was into Murchison Falls. We could only go 30 to 40 kilometers per hour and the washboard road savagely rattled Patrick’s Toyota. Along the way, we saw groups of baboons sitting on the road, they scurried into the bush as we came close. Some large birds with long beaks ran down the road in front of us looking nervously over their shoulder (Abbisinnia Ground Hookbills). At one point, some biting flies got into the car and Patrick pulled over so we launch a serious counterattack, swinging wildly with hands and handkerchiefs. Luckily the 4 pm ferry was still shuttling back and forth when we got there at a quarter past– loading up people, land cruisers and even a goat carried by motorcycle. We said goodbye to our new-found traveling companions and set across the mighty Nile.
The GLI Kampala campus is a large house with a gated garden at the end of a quiet lane. Already we have met a half a dozen young people that are connected with the project in one way or another. Martina is the field Marshall who keeps everything moving the right direction. She and Isao met us at the airport. Simon visited with us at breakfast. Her Dad, Henry, and brother Patrick helped us tremendously in running some errands, then we had lunch at the Acacia mall. In the food court, people come out withe menus from each vendor and bring service to each table. The Ugandan food was delicious!
In the afternoon, Joanne invited us to her auntie’s wedding. The wedding was not large–it was enormous! There must have been five or six hundred people. We sat with Joanne and her group of marvelous friends. Though our clothes were still fresh this early in the trip, we were most definitely underdressed. The Ugandans were dressed to the nines, from the granma’s to the little kids. Everyone welcomed us all the same. The reception was mc’d by a pair of television personalities and entertainment included traditional dancers, singers and speeches. Mostly the presentations were spoken in Lugunda, but every now and then and English phrase would pop out. And some of the lugundan started to sound familiar. Nyo Nyo means VERY much! The reception was on the scale of an Olympic closing ceremony. What an honor to be included!
Last step in our flight–Kigale to Entebbe. This imoment is so full of potential. We will step off the plane into an experience rich and unknown. I bring impressions and images from what I have been told, what I have read and what I have looked at on screen. On to the full sensations of sound and space, odors and temperatures, flavor and human proximity, all of these filtered through my attitudes, moods, interpretations and interaction with the people around me. We begin our final descent, prepare our documents and our persons for this new chapter.
Descending in darkness over the North Sea
almost to Amsterdam
For a moment I saw city lights away to the rear
The coast of England receding
then blotted out by clouds
A single vessel illuminated from stem to stern
cuts a path across the water
Brings to mind James navigating his Giant peach
also the pirate radio ship broadcasting
60’s rock and roll to a buttoned down Britain
And watchmen in a distant lighthouse
visited by Scrooge on Christmas Eve
Amsterdam pops into view
Sprawling into the water
with neat orange like lights
Schiphol airport is full of life
and designed for human use
not only plugs for devices
but tables to sit at
chairs that face each other
comfy couches
The morning breaks slowly over
Verdant moist fields and airstrip
Now at the gate for Africa.
A young father
is dressed completely in USC Trojans gear
I admire his knit hat and
he tells me he is going home for a visit
We tell him about our trip
He hopes we enjoy Uganda
and cautions to be careful
twice
Christmas morning 2014. This is my first Christmas at an airport and though the lines are shorter, there are plenty of travelers. Christmas spirit is a little thin. A young woman came on the p.a. and sang “we wish you a merry Christmas” only slightly off-key, We were the only ones who clapped, but it was kind of early in the morning Later on, a mom was blowing kisses to someone on her iPad.
Of course, a typical Christmas for us is not a snowy scene out of Hallmark cards. Many of our loved ones are waking up in their tents, tucked behind the dunes that skirt the Sea of Cortez. This year Eva is there without us, another first. She will be thinking of us and all the years we opened our gifts on the sand. Then everyone will gather for the Christmas potluck prepared on camp stoves. Mamanina, from her canvas chair, will smile at her grandkids and make faces at the baby. She will have to be reminded why we aren’t there.
Now the cloud cover reaches out to the horizon drawing a curtain over countless family celebrations and, no doubt, a share of tragedies. Over the curving earth it goes… all the way to Africa.
Huckleberry is staying in snow country while we travel. Thank you to our friend Wang for offering him a home away from home.
Watching this amazing documentary about the Team Rwanda Cycling project. There is a a chance we may connect with them toward the end of our trip. Cross your fingers! What a story!
http://risingfromashesthemovie.com/
Cerian Gibbes, member of the teaching team for Community Development in Eastern Africa, was recently selected for a prestigious Fulbright research program. Dr. Gibbes has taught and conducted research in Africa, including a 2010 article in Geography Compass, entitled “The Illusion of equity: Community based natural resource management in Southern Africa.”
Gibbes selected for Fulbright research program | UCCS Communique.
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